One thing Dubai is not, despite the efforts of Sheikh Muhammed's PR office, is a cultural capital. With it's profusion of malls, hotels and indoor ski slopes, but distinct lack of museums or galleries there is a distinct lack of "culture". But despite its wanton bedrock of consumerism it is one of the most multicultural cities in the world. Only 17% of the population is local Emiratis with the rest made up of migrant workers from Europe, America, the Phillipines and the India subcontinent and if you venture away from the glittering, towering hotels and into the actual streets you'll find some of the best food, company and crafts this side of Mumbai. You can buy fresh naan cooked in baking hot tandori ovens for a dirham (20p) and have a slap up Rajastani meal for under a tenner. Satwa and Karama are the two districts that make up "Little India" and they're undoubtedly my favourite parts of the city.
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| A street in Satwa |
But, of course, the other thing that Dubai does well is fun. Expats here welcome the beginning of the weekend with a singularly Dubai custom: Friday Brunch. Brunch here is less a fry up at midday but a full on buffet come banquet with rows upon rows of cooking stations groaning under the weight of the food. Reflecting the multicultural outlook of the city you can eat everything from roast beef to roti all washed down (generously) with unlimited libations. Excessive it is, and indicative of the Dubai way (the superlative city after all) but there is no doubting that it's fun. To finish my week long stay here, and to say goodbye before I go to Beirut (where my mother is convinced I am going to become embroiled in a revolution) we went to the Yacht Club for their Brunch (which starts at 7…) Today I feel decidedly fragile but not only that I realised the consequences of plying the middle aged with tequila shots. At some point it was decided that it would be amusing to shave my head even more and I woke up this morning with a headache and a lack of hair. Brilliant.
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| The GI Look |
Anywho, I now need to pack before I leave on Monday morning for the Paris of the Middle East. I'm more excited than ever and have booked myself onto an Arabic Course at the Saifi Institute so will let you know how ordering hummus in my best accent goes.
Gx
